Tuesday 29 October 2013

Weddings and BBQs


29th October 2013

 

So this week there has been two overriding themes. Firstly Peter’s (my boss) son’s wedding and Pamela leaving.

We will start with the former. We were invited to the wedding, only the evening reception. The actual wedding was supposed to take place at 9.00 in the morning. At 10.40 the service began (my neighbour braved it and went). After about 20 minutes they were told it was likely to last 1 and a half hours so they cut and run.

We arrived at the very exclusive Mount Soche Hotel in Blantyre dressed to impress, promptly at 6.20pm for the sit down meal at 6.30pm. Guess what – we were the first to arrive. So in true British style we absconded to the bar. Slowly people arrived and by 7 we decided to move into the room, decorated in a typical wedding style except for a couple of items. One the giant white sofa up on a stage in the middle of the room and two the table at which were 8 or so people with big red name badges round which stated ‘Cashier’ on them.

Now we had been warned about this. The custom in Malawi is that gifts are give in the form of cash. The method of this given is that you get invited up to dance with the couple and as you do you throw your small denomination notes into the air. The cashiers collect them all up, take the ‘wedding tax’ amount for the government and the rest goes to the couple.

So when the MC invited us all up (at 8.00) for the dance we dutifully got up, followed the conga line that was there and we are ready prepared 20 kwacha notes ( 4pence) we dutifully threw them in the air.

What we had not been warned of is that people dance to different times. So the first one was everyone, an introduction. The next was the different clans. The next friends on the grooms parents. We had to get up at this as we were invited by them and had to throw whatever else we had left.

We had also thought that because we were British we would buy them some champagne. A little something. I then made the mistake of asking my boss when was appropriate for is to give this. Oh he was delighted and told the MC to make a special announcement just for us to present this. So up we jumped again and I handed a big shiny bag to the groom as we all danced around again and yes threw more money.  The cashiers were scooping up handfuls and bowlfuls of cash. I imagine it is a little like Vegas!

I reckon there must have been around 30 different ‘dances’ and the one upmanship of people throwing the most was clearly evident.

Somewhere in the middle of all of this we had a very nice buffet meal and champagne and prayers and speeches.

We decided to leave at midnight even though I was itching to find out the total. If I do I will let you know.

 

And so to Sunday where we had Pamela’s leaving braai (African BBQ). There was food galore and beer, and wine, and sangria. And Pam (my pam) made some awesome cakes, one with Africa painted on, the other with ‘Pamera’ spelt out. For some reason Malawians think Ls and Rs are interchangeable.

She has been presented with a Malawi flag in our assembly. The construction choir (a choir sings every Monday morning) sang ‘Flower of Scotland’ – she Glaswegian – although no one had taught them the additional rugby elements. I didn’t think it appropriate to add them in.

And today we had a farewell lunch and she was presented a massive picture frame with her name (spelt wrong) and the dates of her stay engraved into it.

Personally I will be sad to see her go as she has been a source of previous knowledge for projects, and a good sounding board for frustration in the construction office when dealing with the politics and culture out her.

This evening I am embarking on my first cycle ride with a man named Martin. He used to cycle for Malawi and he cycles 50km each morning for training. We are going mountain biking .....it could be interesting.

 

STATMAN

Styles of money throwing at wedding – at least 10 the most impressive was the bridemaid’s who tried to throw it as fast as possible.

Money raised – don’t know but I reckon it a couple of million – bear in mind most notes were 50s.

Number of guests we had to dance infront of – circa 300.

How bored the happy couple looked by the end – very

Burgers cooked at the bbq – 20

Flies at the bbq – MILLIONS

And finally the current mosquitoes score is

Mosquitoes 7 Christopher 12 (just hanging on although the bite on my knuckle smarts!)


Tuesday 22 October 2013

Walls, roads, and Lake Malawi (photos added)


Monday 21st Oct

 

(Photos will be coming, I will update tomorrow when I have downloaded from the weekend)

 

Well what a week. So after a lovely five day weekend I returned to work with a bang on Wednesday. The particular bang in question came at around 4.40pm just as I was leaving the office (we finish at 4.30 here on account that the lights get turned out at 6. No really it is dark at about 6.05) and it can be attributed to Jimmy the Rasta, now named Jimmy the Reprobate, driving a dumper truck through a wall. A big wall. Massive cracks, knocked over a pillar. So I spent an extra twenty minutes taping off the stairs that now had a large wall looming over them. Jimmy claimed the brakes had failed.

 
Thursday morning arrived as so did the sight I got as I arrived at work. Our lorry embedded in the wall the other side from the one Jimmy demolished. They couldn’t hit the same bit could they. Guess what! Brake failure again. Now you may think that was all the incidents of Thursday bit no. It gets better. We have recently taken delivery of a JCB 360 for work on the football field opposite the centre. So at around 10 o’clock when everyone has a break our driver and the guard go for tea. But the school next door also has a break. I kid you not there was around 50 kids playing in and around our 21 tonne excavator. Some were on the arm others in the bucket. When the driver returned fortunately the kids scrambled off the JCB but continued to jump on the piles of dirt he was digging, but don’t worry the driver carried on. I have changed my goals since being here. Rather than finishing the projects on time and budget it is now not to kill anyone!

 
 So Friday came and so did our weekend trip. Everyone in Mtisidi, in a convoy of three cars, drove to Cape MacLear the southern side of Lake Malawi. It was 6 hours of dodging chickens, goats, potholes, cows, cyclists, people and crazy drivers but it was worth it!

Smikey, our neighbour in Blantyre, grew up there and his family prepared a feast for our arrival of Msima (spongy maize stuff) rice, chicken and Kampango – possibly the nicest fish I have ever eaten!

The next morning Lake Malawi was on our doorstep. It is amazing. The calm blue waters, the clear blue sky. Chris and I made the decision early that we would be adventurous and hire a kayak. On hearing the price of a kayak we opted for the cheaper Malawian dug out. It is essential a giant tree trunk with a point at both ends and not much in the middle.

We soon realised why the dug outs were sooooo much cheaper. Firstly you sit on two very narrow edges of wood. Then you wedge your legs into a very narrow space into the boat. Now for those that know my build – it isn’t slender or small. And this boat was clearly made for Malawian thighs! Next is the powering of said tree. We had two paddles, both wood, both different sizes. But not to be deterred by all of this we set of for a small island about a mile out. I reckon the reason that they hired out this particular log to tourist was due to it being built wrong. Would it go straight......would it #%&£$!

 It would have been quicker to swim. I know this because it took us an hour and a quarter to get across, numb arse and burnt backs included, and the nutter who swam it that morning did it in 45 mins. We were over taken by one Malawian on his own!

But it was worth it for the snorkling and satisfaction. Loads of sicklids (sp?) pink, blue, yellow, silver and black. We got the hang of it on the way back, it only taking 30 mins.  That afternoon I learnt the game of Boa (sp?) in the Gecko Lodge with the aid of Jim and a few carlsbergs.

We also sat and watched some kids (Smikey’s nephews) none older than 12, completely embarrass us with their boat skill when they nicked our dug out and took it for a spin.

Sunday morning  the others decided they wanted to go to the island, but being the wusses they are we got a motor boat. And guess who also went swimming in Lake Malawi! Yep one Pam Dawson . And I mean totally swimming. Out of her depth swimming. I wasn’t allowed to leave her side, and it was in water you could see the bottom of but very proud of her!

We then on to feed the fish eagles, watching them take the little fishes we threw straight out of the water. Five in total – Eagles that is, we threw way more fish than that.

 
Then for further frivolities a few of us dived off the boat and found some rocks to continue diving  from.

The journey back was much quicker at 4.5 hours due to using a tarmac road not the one that’s closed and you have to drive in the dirt. I can definitely say Lake Malawi will be visited again.

 

 
Today has been a quiet day working through the first draft of my new novel. Pam is on call for the first time today. 24hours. Essentially she was in work normal time this morning. Will be home at around 10pm tonight and if all goes well won’t be required until 6am tomorrow. If it doesn’t go well she can be called in at any time tonight.

 

STATMAN

 First Draft words: 95k

Amount of blisters from paddling: 2

Animals hit on journey: 0

Things nearly hit: 2 cows, 2 goats, 1 chicken and a broken down truck in the dark!

Mosquito bites: 5 –they got me! After 6 weeks they finally got me!

Fresh mangoes eaten: 1 so good.

Cost of fresh mango: 2p

Types of Carlsberg drunk: 3, green, brown and black.

Average temp for the weekend: 34ish.

 



Wednesday 16 October 2013

Apologies for being late!


We had a bank holiday yesterday so I wasn't in work. I know, I know. I said last week every tuesday and then the first tuesday boom - he misses. All I can say is sorry and here is the weeks news....
 
October 15th

 

So I am trying to remember the week’s events. Work was work. Nothing particular exciting happened there. And so onto more exciting things.

The first that stands out is Thursday night. We decided to go to Doogles again. Standard evening lots of expats there and a Malawian band playing this time Malawian songs. It was nice. Now for those of you that do not know Doogles I am sure you know of bars similar. It is a backpackers lodge that after hours turns into a drinking establishment, and as such the swimming pool is left where it is during the day. You all know what’s coming next. The poor bloke did not stand a chance. He sauntered in looking up at the bar, even the lead singing tried to warn him, too late though. Boom, straight in, his face was a picture. And then he did what most would do. Got up and left having only arrived moments earlier.

 

Sunday was a scorchio day. I reckon in my esteemed knowledge somewhere in the early thirties so we spent it by the pool.

 

And then today, which of course, is Pam’s birthday and also a public holiday – Mother’s Day. Hence why this blog has not been uploaded.. So we started with pancakes and strawberries. Then took a drive to Zomba, the old capital. Now the road is being relayed so most of it is closed. Rather than diverting, everyone simply drives alongside in the dirt. Until we did get diverted through tiny village. Now bear in mind this is one of Malawi’s main road so it’s a little bit like sending the M40 through Maids Moreton. Here is an example o one of the single lane roads.

 

 

When we arrived we had a wander round the town, some nice old buildings from the colonial past, one that is a golf club looks very suspiciously like a cricket pavilion and was the gymkhana in 1923. Then up to the plateau, which is a hunk of rock 2000m up. And because the mist is so frequent it has a massive forest all over it. We had a very posh lunch in the hotel up there then got lost in the mist trying to find various tourist sites and came back down to look at the waterfall instead.

 

 
This evening we have had a braai (bbq for those back home) cake and fun. I am currently hyped up on E numbers and sugar from the crazy ingredients our very kind neighbours put in the delicious cake. But the evening was stolen by a very cute individual, Sebastian Dawson, who sent his Auntie a birthday message that Pam got as we were sitting down to eat. Such a cutie!

 

In case you are wondering I got the present spot on. Nice piece of African art. Much more succesfull than the card, which gave no indication that it was for a ‘very special grandson’ until I got it home and opened it to write inside. Also the envelope was not the right one, it was about 3 sizes too small! Ah makes you remember than not everything has to be quite right.

 

STATMAN:

KGs of meat for the burgers: 3
 
People cooked for at the bbq: 16

Percentage of times our car central locking works: 50%

Number of broken/stranded cars we have helped: 2

Number of passenger lifts to random people: 3

Average speed of a minibus: 90kph – irrelevant of road surface

Dead dogs in the road: 2 ( just for the chav!)
 

Tuesday 8 October 2013

Animals and People


I have decided to update the blog every Tuesday, it is easier that way and you then know when to check it, for those of you still reading (hello Mum!).

 

So this week, well Pam had to work Sunday due to an argument between the government and the college of medicine that has resulted in all consultants striking out of hours. The registrars have agreed amongst themselves to cover it to support each other. Unfortunately it was an horrific shift with several deaths. She is having to come to terms with the mortality rate and not necessarily being able to help those she might have been able to back in the UK.  But she is still enjoying it and is glad of the experience.

 

My work is plodding along with various office politics as with any job. Also I have to produce the budget for next year’s spending by the end of next week. As for the book I have crashed through 80 thousand words. Hopefully someone will want to publish this one!
 
 

 

On a lighter note we went to one of the game reserves here. Above is the lovely people went with. So at the top is Chris who works in the hospital with Pam, them coming down the tree we have Pamela (architect who works with me) Thia (goes to Beehive nursery), Natalie and Claire (work at the children centre) and Helen (Children centre manager and Thia’s mum!)  It boasted lions and leopards and rhinos. We saw none. Although we did see elephants (one tried unsuccefully to hide behind a tree), hippos, water buffalo, and lots of deer type stuff. It was self drive as well, so I got to pretend to be in Top Gear Christmas Special with a 25 year old car. The Rav4 was great up and down the dips although we think we may need to change the tyres before the rainy season. Some tread would be nice!

 

Speaking of rainy season it appears to have come a month and a half too early. Hot and dry October hmmmmm. It started on Friday and has absolutely bucketed it down every afternoon since. And when I say rain I mean rain. It’s like standing in a shower with your clothes on. The lightning is pretty impressive that comes with it as well.

 

We also had our first night out. Doogles on Thursday night. It was a bit of an expat place with either lots of elder Europeans who have been here for years or students on year outs. The music was entertaining as well. It was interesting to hear a Malawian reggae band playing Lionel Richie, Michael Jackson and UB40 all in the same set. We are undecided whether we shall be going this Thursday.

 Also washing machine has broken so all clothes are being washed by hand. But don’t worry we have the patented ‘Dawson double wringing’ technique!

 The insects just keep getting bigger and bigger. Ants the size of wasps, and flying too.

Here is a typical Malawian landscape as well. I am tempted to return to the same spot after the rainy season to see the difference....if I remember.


 

STATMAN

 

Number of geckos living in our house: 2

Sick days Pam has needed: 3 (she is not used to Malawian childrens germs)

Number of permissions slips I sign  each day: Around 25

Cakes baked: 0

Cakes eaten: 9

My gym sessions: 4 grrrr



Tuesday 1 October 2013

WARNING Contains Spiders


Give a man a bulldozer and he’ll find the nearest water pipe. It would appear that this rule is a universal rule across all continents. Yep  most of Thursday was spent trying to deal with a ruptured water pipe which was pouring through our site. Kids came and played in it and drank from it. It did not look good from a PR point of view but I was just glad that we aren’t somewhere were water is scarce and people rely on it heavily.......hmmmm!
 
So Pam has been working on special care ward – like our high dependency. So she has been looking after kids with weird and wonderful – Malaria, TB, HIV related illnesses, Schistosomiasis, Takayasu and a one year old with a bowel obstruction after drinking battery acid.
She is getting in to the swing of stuff and feeling useful!
 
Here is a picture of one of the main roads with absolutely gorgeous Jacaranda Trees that only bloom for a very short period of time. As for life here we have pretty much settled into our routine.
 
 
We decided to have an explore around the city this weekend. We found Doogles, the local music venue, where we will be going on Thursday night. We found the blue Elephant a local restaurant. And then we decided to go to the local market. WOW. So okay for those that have been to Marrakesh it is like the souk but much narrower, dirtier and busier. For those that have not image a maze made out of brick walls, hardware stores and covered up. Needless to say we got accosted and lost quite a few times. And it sold everything, trainers to plugs to watches, to car parts, food, clothes. It is the Malawi equivalent of Bluewater!
We also attempted to find a church on Sunday, only the one that was recommended had bone on an away, so we tried one that turned out to be the main cathedral and about 3000 very smartly dressed Malawians watched us turn up in flip flops and a t shirt. Needless to say we left in the first Hymn (Yes they only sang hymns) and went for coffee.
 
Just to keep up the creepy crawlies theme this is a photo of a spider Pam found in the hospital! Apparently the locals were quite amused by her reaction.
 
 
 
 
 
Okay STATMAN:
 
The Mosquito scores are in,
Pam 1 Mosquitoes 20
Chris 2 Mosquitoes 0. (Yep that is not a typo – but now it’s out there I reckon they will have it in for me!)
Take aways eaten:  1 chinese. It wasn’t that nice or that chinesey.
Hugs received from random children because we are white:  5
Cloudy days: 3
Average temperature: frigging boiling!
 
POST POST NOTE It rained most of the day today! Apparently this is very strange for this time of year but it felt a lot like home.